A friend invited me to the Sydney Open a couple of years ago and I thought she was talking about the tennis. It turns out the Sydney Open is in fact a city discover tour of historically and architecturally significant buildings in and around Sydney, run by the Historic Houses Trust (HHT). The Open is on every second year and it ran for the seventh time in 2008. Tops.
The Tank Stream tour sold out in the blink of an eye, so MBH got us City Pass tickets instead which gave us access to 70 buildings for the day (2 November 2008). We agreed to try and get around to about 14 properties but we only managed 11 by the end of the day, mainly due to queueing and sore feet. We made our choices by prioritising Art Deco buildings and discounted buildings that we already knew well such as St Marys Cathedral or buildings that could be easily accessed in ordinary circumstances like the Commonwealth Bank at Martin Place.
* Please note, much of the text below is unashamedly lifted from the Sydney Open 2008 guidebook.
1. AMP Building
Our first stop was the AMP building on Albert Street at Circular Quay, reputable due to its status as Australia's first skyscraper, built in 1962. We waited for at least half an hour in the queue, as they were only allowing one group of 15 up at a time. When we arrived at level 26 we were shown around a rather plush and retro style board room and then out onto the viewing platform to take some photos. Some shots of the view above.
2. BMA House
BMA House, built in 1928-1930, on Macquarie Street was designed by the inter-war architects Fowell and McConnel in an Art Deco style, an early Sydney skyscraper embellished with medieval and Gothic decoration. Todd Hall was the meeting hall and lecture theatre for the British Medical Association until 1979. Yawn.
3. City Mutual Building
Another Art Deco building on Hunter Street, the City Mutual Building was designed by Emil Sodersten and built in 1934-36. City Mutual was the first private office building in Sydney to be air conditioned. We were allowed to access Level 2 and found a lovely, wood panelled board room with funky little deco kitchenette and bathroom. Otherwise a bit underwhelming, although I've always admired City Mutual from the street. It would have been better if greater access to the building was allowed.
4. Deutsche Bank Place
MBH took one look at the glass lifts on the outside wall of the building and decided to sit this one out. I jumped in a lift up to Level 28 reception where I saw a fantastic collection of modern art, presumably owned by some overpriced law firm or other. The views were pretty good too, and they should be since Deutsche stands at the highest point of the Sydney CBD. I caught one of the lifts facing the outside of the building on the way back down and couldn't suppress my nervous laughter as we plumetted every so smoothly to the ground. You can ride these lifts any time and I highly recommend it!
5. AWA Building
Another big queue at this one and we were told to expect a 45 minute wait. Some people ditched the queue, but we persisted. As far as opens go this was a good one. We got to climb up to the base of the tower (see pic). Amalgamated Wireless Australia head office building, built in 1939, was the tallest structure in Sydney for decades. Not surprisingly, the AWA Building is covered by a Permanent Conservation Order.
A fact that the guide doesn't mention but one that quite a lot of Sydneysiders know is that the AWA Tower makes an appearance in The Matrix. Cool or what?
6. Westpac Bank
I wasn't expecting much from the old Bank of New South Wales headquarters, but the Westpac Bank building on George Street, built 1927-1932, was a treasure trove of interesting little snippets about 'the olden days' of banking. For instance, all bank employees used to armed with a gun and there even used to be a rifle range on the roof for target practice. How banking has changed!
The building itself is impressive, like many other bank flagships of the time, highly decorated with vast high ceilings. The safe deposit vault was open and we wandered around imagining all the jewels and passports and share certificates that must be contained within each inconspicious little box. There were many mirrors in the room, confirming my suspicion that many expensive jewels are imprisoned here.
7. Architectus
We weren't intending to visit Architechus but we ended up in the lift at the Bank and arrived on level 3 somewhat bemused, but curious. Apparently we weren't the first group to visit by accident. As we stepped out of the lift, a volunteer politely asked us whether we knew where we were. MBH said "not reallt, but we're here now!" in a very cheerful and that seemed to assauge her concern. What we saw was a very bloody funky open plan office, the kind you would expect a firm of architects to inhabit. The office has an enviable view of Martin Place.
8. National Mutual Building
After Architectus, we trotted over the road to the National Mutual Building. Built 1891-1895 and restored 1984-1986, this one was designed by Edward Raht in an early romaneque style. Its central feature is a central light well and grand staircase, topped by a stained glass ceiling. Check it out next time you pass 348-352 George Street.
9. The Castlereagh Boutique Hotel - NSW Masonic Club
Yet another Art Deco building, the hotel on Castlereagh Street was built in 1927 and designed by Claude William Chambers. I found it rather charming, but there were a few too many framed portraits of the Queen for my liking.
10. The Great Synagogue
Situated on Elizabeth Street, built in 1878 and designed by Thomas Rowe, the Great Synagogue is a composite of Romanesque and Byzantine influences with Gothic detailing. The best bit was MBH wearing a yamika (not sure of the correct spelling).
11. Sydney Water Head Office
This, the final building on our list, had a sizable queue at the entrance. Come on! We waited in a grumpy and tired way, but not as grumpy and tired as the weirdy looking guy behind us obviously was! He alternated between complaining out loud about the queue and pressing himself into my back in a most non-personal space respecting way. When one of the volunteers offered an extra space in the group ahead of us I offered him up immediately from the group. We were much better off without the angry and possibly mad vibe he was exuding. When it was our turn we were treated to a grand example of the horrible things people did to beautiful buildings in the 1960's. They even chopped the main entrance in half horizontally to stick more office space in at some point. Goodness!
We were escorted around the corridors of level 7, which had a creepy, haunted hospital kind of ambience. Our guide, a Sydney Water employee (of many years I'm guessing) enthusiastically showed us into the men's toilets so we could see the Art Deco urinals. No, really! I took a photo but my heart wasn't really in it, exhausted as I was by the end of the day.
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